SUP Porth Ysgo
The south Llŷn peninsula hides an overlooked section of beautiful coastline between Aberdaron and Porth Neigwl. Here is a fantastic environment of cliffs, caves and secluded coves, of wildlife havens and historic interest - and an enticing prospect for two adventurous SUP paddlers!
We had been waiting for some time for the ideal forecast to enjoy this glorious coastal adventure - sea conditions are often too challenging along this exposed coastline at the SW end of the Llŷn, as challenges quickly develop in increasing wind and waves. Finally the stars aligned - light winds and a low swell, with ideal tidal timings. Excited to grab our chance, we loaded the van and rattled down narrow winding roads to the ‘end of the road’ in Aberdaron. The serene sight of its bay greeted us, glimmering under a cloudless sky - a perfect day for a paddle!
We set up our kit in the National Trust car park, wandered down the beach and launched into pleasingly calm conditions. Usually we sea kayak south towards the turbulent waters of Bardsey Sound - today however, we had other plans. We turned our SUPs east and followed the shoreline towards the first small headland at the far end of Aberdaron Bay. Not another soul was afloat as we began our journey towards Porth Neigwl / Hell’s Mouth.
Our first headland featured a cluster of caves and inlets beneath small steep cliffs - we were pleased to find our tidal planning was spot on, as we rounded the headland with barely a hint of adverse current to impede our progress. We had chosen our timings with care to avoid the tide race that forms here between the headland and the Gwylan islands. These isolated grassy sanctuaries are a haven for Atlantic puffins and a potential side trip - today, we passed up the chance and set course along a wild stretch of coastline towards Porth Ysgo. A gentle swell rose and fell as we paddled beneath steep cliffs, reminding us of the commitment of this trip.
We paused at Porth Ysgo in an impossibly beautiful setting, on a small shingle beach beside an impressive set of wave-sculpted rocks that offer some of the best sea level bouldering in the UK. No climbers were testing their skills today, as we lay in glorious isolation on the sun-warmed pebbles of this hidden north Wales gem. We were tempted to linger a while, but there remained some distance to Hell’s Mouth - we relaunched and rounded Trwyn Talfarach as the enormous sweeping bay of Porth Neigwl opened up before us.
We paddled on beneath steep grassy slopes and smooth rock slabs, threading a course along the base of this impressive little-visited headland. The wind remained light with little sea state to negotiate - although following waves begin to build a little as we passed the tiny fishing cottages of Plas yn Rhiw, surging our SUPs forwards and testing our balancing skills!
We approached the west corner of Hell’s Mouth with caution, mindful of a possible shorebreak at this famous surfing venue. The dropping tide revealed a shallow bouldery shoreline - thankfully, few waves were breaking among these rocky hazards and we speedily landed beneath crumbling slopes that clearly struggled to withstand the winter storms of this exposed coastline.
Abandoning the prospect of a 10km paddle back to Aberdaron, we tiptoed carefully up a steeply zigzagging ‘goat track’ and arrived in the cliff top fields of Treheli Farm campsite. Gazing across the vast expanse of water towards Trwyn Cilan, we savoured the satisfaction of a fine coastal paddle in a less-known corner of the Llŷn peninsula. All that remained was a short ride back to Aberdaron on our ‘shuttle bike’ stashed here earlier in the day - how’s that for planning!
Overview
This is a magical and rewarding paddle along an isolated and little-visited coastline, with beautiful rock scenery, potential wildlife encounters and the attraction of Aberdaron’s peaceful village atmosphere. Most paddlers will seek calm conditions along this exposed route that offers few landings. Tidal streams can be powerful past the headland at the east end of Aberdaron Bay - good timings are essential.
When to avoid?
The SW Llŷn peninsula can be a wild place in windy weather, with little shelter and few landings - avoid this route unless certain that conditions are suitable. Swell can be present, creating surf at access points and landings - check the forecast with care. A tide race regularly forms in the vicinity of the Gwylan islands - another hazard to consider and avoid.
Other options?
If conditions are unsuitable on the exposed coast of the Llŷn peninsula, two venues offer more shelter and protection - consider Nefyn / Porth Dinllaen and Abersoch Bay as alternative options. These are semi-protected coastal locations, and not always suitable for paddling excursions. Plan with care and check conditions before launching.
The Llŷn peninsula coastal footpath follows the cliff tops from Aberdaron to Rhiw - an excellent alternative in a beautiful setting, with glorious views across Cardigan Bay towards the mainland mountains. Pack your hiking shoes for a different outdoor adventure!
Ashore
Aberdaron is a beautifully situated village with a quiet ‘lands end’ atmosphere. The Ship Hotel and Gwesty Tŷ Newydd offer food and refreshment, while Sblash Caban Cymru serve excellent fish and chip suppers. Islwyn Bakery has excellent coffee and a range of enticing treats - there is also a small general store for last-minute provisions. What more would we need!
Treheli Farm campsite and coffee shop is a superb base in this corner of the Llŷn peninsula, with magnificent views in a cliff-top peaceful locale.