SUP Llanddwyn Island
Newborough is beautifully located in the southern corner of Anglesey, with glorious views across Caernarfon Bay to the coastal hills of the Llŷn peninsula. At the NW end of its long sandy beach, an intricate rocky headland extends offshore, isolated at high tide by the rising waters of the Irish Sea. Here is Llanddwyn Island, a peaceful and historic place - and a great destination for another coastal SUP adventure!
We waited a while for perfect conditions - a warm summer day, light winds with a gentle sea state, and a local HW time at the midpoint of our planned trip. With paddle boards and kit loaded in the car, we drove to the village of Newborough, from where - eyes peeled for red squirrels - we followed the narrow winding road through sand dunes and pine forest to the large beach car park. A warm gentle breeze blew onto the shore, with only a few small waves rippling the waters beyond the beach - conditions were as ideal as we had hoped.
We quickly prepared our kit, changed into neoprene shorts and rash vests and packed our kit bag. SUPs under our arms, we completed the short walk to the shoreline via a brief chat with a pair of RNLI volunteers offering water safety advice to passing beachgoers. It was great to see this practical approach to sharing good practice afloat. We launched at around halfway through the flooding tide, perfect timing to avoid a long sandy walk later in the day!
Afloat, we followed an inshore route along the beach, heading west to the start of Llanddwyn’s rocky headlands. We quickly left the car park crowds behind, and enjoyed relative solitude to Pilot’s Cove at the SW end of Llanddwyn Island. Rock outcrops between tiny horseshoe beaches were a delightful paddle in these calm conditions.
We landed at Pilot’s Cove to explore this magnificent coastal setting, past the preserved row of pilot cottages whose inhabitants guided vessels safely across the treacherous waters of Caernarfon Bar. A 19th century lighthouse - no longer lit - marks Llanddwyn’s seaward extremity, from where we surveyed conditions before committing to its wilder north side. We followed the track past the remains of Dwynwen’s ancient church, before looping back to Pilot’s Cove. This tidal island truly is a wondrous Anglesey destination, and well worth the paddle from Newborough.
The seas are often challenging around the exposed SW headland into Malltraeth Bay - today, we enjoyed peaceful conditions as we slalomed between rocky islets populated with resting cormorants, their outstretched wings drying in the warm sunshine. Away to the NW, the Bodorgan headlands beckoned invitingly, while Rhoscolyn’s more distant islands shimmered on the horizon. Another summer project perhaps?
We arrived at Newborough’s north beach, where a few small waves surfed us gently into the shallows. Here, Llanddwyn’s tidal ‘island’ status became apparent - we picked our SUPs out the water and marched across fifty sandy metres to return to relaunch on the south side of the isthmus. Although close to HW, we had chosen a small tidal range for this coastal adventure - on this day Llanddwyn never quite became an island. Larger tides offer the chance to complete this circuit without touching sand, although tidal streams can be an issue beyond Pilot’s Cove.
We cruised across placid waters towards our Newborough launch point, admiring the Eryri / Snowdonia mountains that form a dramatic backdrop to this final leg of the journey. Back at the car park, we reflected on a wonderful SUP adventure - a 6km circuit, immensely varied, with plentiful interest and a sense of commitment around Llanddwyn’s SW headlands. In all, this is a classic trip for the adventurous coastal SUP paddler - in the right conditions… We drove back through Newborough’s pine forest, and on to our final rendezvous - a satisfying Menai Bridge pint in the evening sunshine. Fantastic!
Overview
Choose a light wind day to enjoy this exposed SW-facing coastline. Landings are frequently available between Llanddwyn’s rocky corners - a settled sea is needed to avoid challenging conditions, especially beyond Pilot’s Cove on the north side of the island. Tide levels are important - complete the trip above half-tide to avoid a lengthy walk across Newborough’s expansive sands.
When to avoid?
Steer clear of this place in any windy weather - sea conditions build quickly all along this coastline, and there is no protection from offshore winds. Beware of venturing too far from shore - there can be strong tidal streams and breaking waves across Caernarfon Bar. Avoid mid-summer crowds - Newborough suffers from its popularity, and is at times impossible to access through sheer weight of numbers. Save this place for quieter times of year, for a more enjoyable experience.
Other options?
Go for a hike! Newborough national nature reserve and Llanddwyn island offer superb way-marked trails through shifting sand dunes, among Corsican pine forests and along surf-sculpted beaches. This beautiful corner of Anglesey is a fantastic place for storm watching, especially at Llanddwyn Island - remember to check the tides!
Rhosneigr, Rhoscolyn and Trearddur are also popular west coast paddling venues. All are exposed to wind and sea state - save them for calm days.
Ashore
There are beach car park toilets, although no other permanent services - bring your own refreshments! There is a small general store in Newborough village - the nearest significant facilities are at Rhosneigr and Llanfair PG.