SUP Rhosneigr
Rhosneigr nestles on the SW Anglesey coast amid low-lying sand dunes, between a series of sandy beaches and rocky reefs that form a popular playground for swimmers, surfers and paddlers. Some days barely a ripple reaches the shoreline - when storms arrive, powerful waves crash onto this unprotected coastline. A fine SUP adventure would depend - like so much in life - on good timing, planning and luck!
One mid-summer day, the paddling stars aligned - light winds, a moderate swell, sunshine and no work! We loaded the surf truck, turned up the Beach Boys and headed for the coast. I was excited to test my developing SUP skills in more dynamic water, while Kelly would dust off her California surf kayak expertise. What could go wrong?! We rolled into Porth Trecastell to see regular lines of swell across the mouth of the bay, while a light southerly wind blew along the coast toward Rhosneigr. We kitted up in the sandy car park and marched down to the beach.
We met the first challenge head on, timing our entry into the ocean between breaking waves. For a few metres my SUP became a lie-down paddle board, while Kelly watched with amusement beyond the break. All good so far as we paddled purposefully out the bay and steered a course towards Rhosneigr. The swell rose and fell rhythmically, unbroken but unpredictable enough to test our balance as our SUPs occasionally surged down larger wave faces. I took a couple of unexpected swims, no real drama on this warm summer day. Rhoscolyn’s headland shimmered on the hazy horizon across Crigyll Bay, while its offshore islands - capped by a distinctive stone beacon - emerged abruptly from the sea in a jagged series of dragon’s-back ridges.
We passed Porth Tyn Tywyn, familiar to us from kayak surf sessions - and remained beyond the break line, happy to enjoy the energy of these lively deep water waves. My confidence grew as we paddled on - the sight of surfing bodyboarders at Traeth Llydan proved irresistible and we shaped a course towards the beach on the south side of Rhosneigr village.
Perhaps my touring SUP was ill-suited to the surf zone? Or maybe the waves were poorly shaped for riding? Who knows - but my skills were definitely not up to the task! Multiple swims later, I arrived spluttering on the beach to see Kelly gracefully ride her chosen wave ashore. I clearly had much to learn - not least that paddling a 13ft SUP back out through breaking waves was also a challenge too far today. Kelly again made light work of the surf zone, while I resorted to a brief ‘walk of shame’ to reach the shallow lagoon at the south side of Rhosneigr’s town beach. Cursing my wilful inflatable craft, I tackled the waves once again, and enjoyed some success in the friendly break that formed in front of Rhosneigr’s surf shop. You’ve got to look good in front of the clubhouse!
We lingered a while in the rock pools that fill above half-tide among Rhosneigr’s protecting reefs, savouring the experience of navigating our SUPs through this beautiful coastal zone. Porth Trecastell lay a 3km to the south - our journey, although short in distance, had been filled with fun and adventure. We landed at Beach Road, unlocked our trusty shuttle bike, and I raced off to recover the van. The seawater dripping constantly from my nostrils was a salty memento of my surfing incompetence!
We reflected on our adventures over refreshments in Rhosneigr’s ‘cafe quarter’, taking in the bustling holiday scene around us. Heading home along the coast road, we stopped to climb up to the small headland overlooking our launch point, a fine viewpoint over SW Anglesey’s beautiful coastline. SUP surfing? - I’ll soon be back for more!
Overview
Rhosneigr’s beaches are popular in friendly summer conditions, and are also a storm mecca for committed kite surfers, foil riders and boardies. Choose your day to suit your aims. The coast road runs between Porth Trecastell and Rhosneigr, giving easy access to a handful of SW-facing beaches. Check for intertidal rocks before launching. This 3km stretch of coastline is a fun SUP playground in friendly conditions, and far less welcoming when Atlantic storms arrive.
When to avoid?
Stormy weather brings challenging conditions to this exposed coastline, with no shelter and many rocky hazards. The popular beaches can be crowded in high summer, with a huge variety of water users competing for space.
Other options?
There are no protected paddling venues on Anglesey’s west coast - in windy weather, better SUP adventures may be found on inland lakes in Eryri / Snowdonia national park. The Menai Strait is often a good choice, although its fast-flowing tides bring new planning challenges.
Ashore
Rhosneigr high street has a wealth of cafes, while the Oystercatcher pub on the south side of the village offers food and refreshments on its panoramic balconies. The Anglesey coastal footpath snakes through sand dunes en route to Holy Island - a great storm watching alternative on wild days.